What is this?

formerly a blog about India.
now technically in the beyond
six months in Oz

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Classes

It's about time to give an overview of my classes (I'm still working on how to describe homestay, because it's so awesome and so out of the way I traditionally think of things that it's difficult to put into words. Suffice it to say that I really am enjoying homestay and it forces me to think about a lot of things really differently than I would normally). Classes are much easier to put into context for people not in India.

Tibetan class is just ridiculous. Tibetan has many different scripts, but we're learning the most basic one. You don't pronounce all the letters in the words, there are superscripts and subscripts, and there are things called "particles." If anyone knows what a particle is in English, please fill me in, because it might help. Also, we learn how to say things like "the cat is on the table" in class, which isn't helpful because I want to say things like "I'm going to Stephen's house. What time is dinner? I will be back at this time. Do you think it will rain today?" I normally end up making sarcastic comments, which elicit a "huh?" from Tashi Sonam-la, because sarcasm doesn't translate. I also crack up at least once a class, and have gotten berated for saying things in Tibetan "too harshly" (Tashi Sonam didn't use the word harsh, but he would have if he'd thought of it. Being from New Jersey strikes again). Thankfully, Amala and Pala are teaching me how to say more useful things.

Philosophy class is AWESOME. Partially it's amazing to learn from a real live nun, inside His Holiness the Dalai Lama's temple (our classroom moved when we came up to Mcleod), and partially I really enjoy Buddhist philosophy and am finally feeling like I can ask pertinent philosophical questions. Buddhism asserts the existence of a separate mind (from the brain and the body, while allows for past and future lives), which I have trouble accepting, and also asserts multiple consciousnesses (this is complicated, and about three people reading actual care, so I won't get into it, but I am really interested and so class is really good). We have memorization assignments which I find really difficult while learning and normally end up yelling at Julia while she gives me looks that say "why don't you know this already?" but at the end I feel accomplished and it's made me want to memorize poetry.

Culture class is hit or miss. I really enjoy some sections, and others I sit through (like the one on the day where I could have been making capse at Sarah. Honestly, is that not culture? Whatevs). Today's class was great. We had a guest speaker named John who is an archeologist and scholar of ancient Tibet. Pre 7th century, when Buddhism was imported, most Tibetans practiced the Bon (pronouned bun) religion, which is kind of a pagan religion. He had a lot of cool facts, and told us about how there are sites in Tibet dating back to 800 BC with metalwork, funeral sites, and other stuff. Or like the fact that oral histories record dragon sightings (Sara: they are very auspicious, bringing good luck and fertility) and that according to some stories, the whole wheel of existence rests upon a golden flaming turtle (Megan!). This reminds me of the book with all the turtles stacked up. I really want to read that book now, but I can't remember the name of it, so please help me out. Mostly I like the idea of everything resting on a turtle.

We also met with Ama Ade yesterday, a woman who spent 27 years in Chinese political prison for aiding the Tibetan resistance early in the PRC takeover of Tibet. She spent 3 years with almost no food, and of the 300 women who began the time in prison with her, she was one of four to survive. They ate shoe leather because the Chinese only fed them water and minimal amounts of cornmeal. The other three people survived because they had been given the task of feeding the pigs, and always kept some animal feed for themselves, but Ama Ade was the only woman without any other source of food to live. Her story was amazingly sad and powerful (she had a one year old and a four year old at the time of her imprisonment) and it was a real honor to meet her. The opportunity to speak with so many different types of people and learn about their lives is the real beauty of this program and the best way to learn about the culture, so I kind of wish we just had talks and field trips all the time. 

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Bagsu photos

Sunday in pictures. Quick recap: On Sunday, I woke up, had a great breakfast of freshly made eggs and bread and this Tibetan chili sauce which is a combination of chili and cheese and some round black pellet that my Amala didn't know the English or Hindi word for, but it was great. After breakfast I met up with Julia and Nellie to go for a walk to a waterfall. We found Eddie and Ryan on the way, and walked to Bagsu, which is another town very close to Mcleod Ganj.


Eddie, Me, Nellie, Julia, Ryan at the waterfall. Indian people are not always great at showing things in the background in the photo. Also, I am not taller than any of these people in real life.


Waterfall! We had to walk up a million stairs to get here, but it was really fun. Eddie and Ryan then hiked to the top of the waterfall. 


Julia makes great faces


Eddie dunked his head in the water because he ran up the mountain ahead of us. I really like this photo.


Julia also left, so Nellie and I chilled in Bagsu. We saw mongeese! They look like a cross between a ferret and a squirrel. They're kind of far away in this photo, but there are two at the base of the tree. 

Then Nellie and I walked around Bagsu. We found a temple, so obviously we had to enter. It was perhaps my favorite so far.


There were four huge cobras surrounding a stone mound, which was clearly sacred because people were pouring water on it.

This was also the first temple we've been in that had other religious figures inside. It made me smile to see the temple promoting harmonious relations.


Jesus. He looks like he has bullet holes, but whatever. 



We were unsure who the other three were, but our guesses were Mohammed, Moses, and maybe an important Sikh guru. Unclear.



Now comes my favorite part. There was a huge tiger mouth with stairs leading to a fake cave. You entered the mouth, walked up, and saw:


The mouth is open, and you look through and see more statues and important figures. It's awesome. Nellie almost made me pee my pants because I looked through and then she popped up on the other side of the mouth, since the cave curves around. Very scary.

Once we finished taking photos (these guys wanted to talk a million photos with us), Nellie and I set off for lunch. We tried to find a falafel place, because there are a lot of Israelis in Bagsu and Sam (the guy in the last post with Julia. Sorry, Sam, Julia doesn't feel that it's important to put your name up, but now you're famous!) told us about a falafel place. Unfortunately, they don't start making falafel until March, so Nellie bought me lunch at an Indian daba. Where she got the best soda in all of India (so far):


Beautiful. It started raining, so we wrote postcards until it stopped, then walked back. I made Nellie stop at a lot of tanka shops along the way (the Tibetan painted or fabric applique art that shows Buddhas or mandalas or whatever). Nellie is going back to Norbalinka to get a fabric one. They are so beautiful that I can't even decide which one I want. Right now I'm debating between one with a thousand Buddhas (more Buddhas equals more merit) or a mandala, which is the sacred house of a certain deity. There are also mantra ones, where mantras (prayers) are written in a circle. We saw this great black one with gold writing, with a really colorful Buddha in the middle. If you need room decorations for next year, please send me an email because tankas are beautiful and I would like you to have one. 

Packages!!

This is still julia, but everyone loves packages!! (Thanks mom)

Were all wearing a million layers cause its soo cold!
That's all
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Oreos!

This is julia!! Thanks for the oreos mom!
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Monday, February 28, 2011

Shameless promotion

You should all read my friend Liz's blog: http://lizsimoninindia.blogspot.com/. You remember Liz:

Dear Liz, If you steal my camera and take ridiculous pictures with it, they go on the blog.
She's a little behind in the posting because she doesn't have a phone, but hopefully now that we have a little more access to internet it'll get better.



She is making me put up this one too because Liz is a sorority girl and would like to promote the owls of Kappa Kappa Gamma. I am now really well informed on KKG: their colors are blue and blue, they really like fleur de lis and owls and keys and have lots of "functions" and overall I'm really happy that Liz gets to be in a sorority and not me. Anyway, if you are her sister and you are reading this, rest assured that she is repping it really hard in India.

Homestay one, or, so many things happened i can't even remember them all

I cannot even describe the events of the past few days. Number one: I am sitting on my roof writing this, and Stephen is sitting on his roof skyping with his family, and I just waved at his dad. FROM MY ROOF TO Stephen's ROOF TO BROOKLYN. I am overly excited. (Stephen Bought the usb internet thing. Apparently it works on the roof.)

We left Sarah on Saturday. Sonam actually left on friday night, so I had the room to myself to pack. Conclusion: I overpacked and will probably send stuff home so I can buy myself a Tibetan/Indian wardrobe.

When we got up to McLeod, we dropped some stuff off at the guest house that will serve as the library up here. It is way up the hill. Then we came back down the hill (I will eventually draw a map) and stephen and I set off with our backpacks, buckets, and computer bags (I left my big bag at the library.)

Stephen and I got lost on the way to out houses so he had to call his pala (father). His pala found us, and they dropped me off at my home.

I have a pala, an amala (mother), and a 23 year old host brother named Dawa. Dawa means moon. I had met all of them on friday when we came up to have tea. Amala doesn't speak much english, but pala and Dawa do, so we had tea and pala began teaching me more Tibetan words. Tibetan seems a lot more fun now that there is a reason to speak it, because I want to be able to tell my amala where I'm going and when i'll be back.

Pala is very outgoing and loves to talk about Tibetan politics and Buddhism. He believes Tibet should be autonomous, but under chinese rule, since Tibetans are often more focused on spirituality than modernization.

Stephen came over because I had called, so I showed him around and he drank Cha, then we went over the his house, where his family was making capse. His house and mine are similar: kitchen, main room, and bedroom. He and I helped for a while, and I drank Cha (common theme).

I left to recharge my phone (put more rupees on it) and redo our international plans (so it shouldn't run out until march 26...the middle of spbreak 11....where I will hopefully be on a beach...win/fail...I am losing command of english).

Anyway, Stephen 's amala gave me directions to the road, but I failed and ended up in the middle of the woods. Thankfully, some monks let me climb down into a monastery, and then I could get to a road. I recharged my phone, and then met up with Nellie, Claudia, and craig at a teashop. We saw Craig's apartment, which is really big and very cold, and then we all walked to our respective homes.

I made craig walk me home because I didn't have a flashlight. I also didn't kn ow how to get home (typical. The two sure things in america: death and taxes. The two sure things in india: tea and Michelle gets lost). We walked back to the temple, and walked up the road to my house. Then you turn off the road and go through the concrete jungle to make it home (there is no way to describe this, especially in the dark. Details later). I hit a point where I didn't know where my house was, because I identify it as the pink one, and it was dark. Things that mark my way home: barbed wire, a pipe that sticks up at an odd angle, rock formations.

I decided to call my pala, but he didn't pick up the phone, so I called Stephen. After putting his brother on to try to talk me through it, they came to get me. My pala called back, but I said I would be home soon. Stephen and his brother found me and Craig two minutes from home, and then I left Craig to find his own way home. He went all the way back to the temple, up and around to his house, but we figured out today that he lives literally twenty yards in the other direction.

For dinner amala made thoukpa, or noodle soup. She made the noodles by hand and put in carrots and meat. The carrots in india are red, or sometimes white, and I had to explain that in america the carrots are orange. We had a really fun conversation at dinner, and my family is really fun and interested in things I'm interested in too. Topics include the differences and similarities in different religions, Tibetan politics, how Tibetans are like Jews (I will devote a whole post to this later), the Kalon Tripa election (Tibetan prime minister), Buddhist values, Obama, how Tibetan history compares to american history.

After dinner Dawa and I watched a violent movie, and I asked if he liked that kind of movie. He said yes, but he had to "put away his spirituality to really enjoy it because it doesn't have Buddhist values." I have never thought about that. Then he showed me some pictures of a hike he went on (I think I'm going to go with him and his friend on the hike soon) and his family. He also showed me some of his schoolwork. He studied graphic design and 3d animation, and now designs websites and teaches a computer class. He told me this morning that he wants to use his skills to promote more uprisings in Tibet and get it out from under china's control, which is such an awesome career path. When I think of 3d animation, I think of video games.

Amala and pala sleep in the bedroom, and Dawa and I sleep in the main room. I slept in my sleeping bag under a blanket, and my wrists were cold. When a part of you gets cold that you normally never think about, you know it's really cold. You can see your breath inside here. I bought myself gloves today because I borrowed Dawa's last night. Thankfully I have a hat and a scarf from other people's abroad experiences that are super warm.

I have more adventures from today, but I would rather write postcards. Also, I may actually write the next post on an actual computer on the actual internet! Which means pictures! Or coherent sentences! Probably neither, but one can hope.
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Saturday, February 26, 2011

Mail!

I got two letters and a package today, which was awesome! I love the mail. Thank you!

I shared the chocolates with everyone, and they were a big hit. Tonight we had a goodbye dinner with our roommates, then all the girls had a dance party in the lounge! It's funny to see the songs Tibetans know, and also see their choreographed routines!

We are leaving Sarah tomorrow, but I said goodbye to Sonam tonight since she is also leaving on a weekend trip. Teaser: today we met our homestay families! Much to say, but it's late and I haven't yet packed (shocker).
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