What is this?

formerly a blog about India.
now technically in the beyond
six months in Oz

Sunday, June 19, 2011

New Beginnings

It's been a little weird being settled in India in a brand-new place. I'm used to traveling and not knowing where I'm going, or I'm used to having everything figured out - my favorite lunch spots, how much items should cost, or where I am.

Nirman uses unorthodox methods for an Indian school, which is to say they focus on imagination and creativity rather than rote memorization. For the past three days I've been going through teacher training with around 30 Indian teachers. The majority are women, ranging in age from early twenties (the majority) to forties. There are some young men and one older man, and everyone has some level of English. A lot of the women want to talk to me, but only a few feel comfortable speaking in English, so two or three have taken to translating for me. Everyone knows my name, since I'm the only white person, but I am overwhelmed at trying to remember 30-plus names!

The training, led by a CMC professor, consists of lots of brainstorming on topics such as, "What is a child?" and "How can we use our imaginations?" It seems elementary to someone who's grown up with excellent teachers in a good educational settings, which I didn't fully realize until seeing that educational models aren't the same everywhere. For example, one of the teachers from last year demonstrated how to read a book to an elementary school class. She held up the book, showed the pictures, and asked questions before she read from the page - all things that I would have done instinctively, but teachers here don't normally read to their classes.

Nirman really encourages teachers to present ideas creatively and let children use their imaginations, and the canteen has books made by the students and examples of their artwork. To me, that's just what school looks like, but normally Indian schoolchildren don't spend their time making art or music or learning how to dance.

Today the teachers split into three groups to present a mini-lesson, on cooking, crafts, or games. I chose the cooking group and learned how to make dokpa, an Indian snack. It's comparable to polenta, except made out of chickpea powder and doused with a chili sauce. it's not too difficult to make, assuming I actually write down the recipe and can find ghee in America. Supposedly it goes with tea, but it's so spicy that I can't imagine how that would work. My fingers are burning from cutting green chilies, because we also made some in the afternoon for the two new interns who arrived today!

Thursday, June 16, 2011

I'm Ba-ack

Sorry for the lack of posts, Mom. It turns out going to China took up a lot of time and energy (almost as much as getting a Chinese visa), particularly because it's even more difficult to communicate with people in Chinese than in Hindi! I think the fact that I didn't have any grasp of the numbers or food words before I went really hindered my ability to get my point across. Nevertheless, the Great Wall definitely deserves its spot on the list of seven wonders of the world. It is amazing. The steps are also really steep and slanted.

Beijing has a ton of things to do, good food, a large Western presence, and a fabulous subway (the buses leave something to be desired). I could go back. Generally, I went to developed China, where there was air conditioning, paved roads, and even sidewalks! I had major culture shock, partially because Chinese society really focuses on materialism in a different way than in India.

I stopped in Hong Kong on my way back to Delhi, and met up with Rena, one of my best friends from high school! Hong Kong is a party. We went out to dinner with an unknown family friend, who took us out to dinner. We ate lots of fish and pork and even had the traditional Hong Kong dish of pigeon. Rena and her family and I also went out for Shanghaiese food, which is fabulous. I really like Chinese food and most people in China were surprised at how well I could use chopsticks.

Then I flew back to Delhi, and the next day flew to Varanasi. I had a little bit of culture shock coming back as well -- India is still hot and humid. I've moved into the guest house at Nirman (www.nirman.info), which is where I'll be interning this summer (new address on the top banner -- send me mail!). More info on that later, but basically it is a school focusing on integrating creativity into traditional lesson plans.

Whilst I've been here, I've been busy cheating death: monsoon rains that leave two inch puddles on the school grounds, eating raw mangos using the Indian method (which involves squishing them around inside their skins, then opening a hole and sucking out the pulp) after dousing them in Purell, arguing with the Foreigner's Registration Office (it never ends), and last but not least, riding a motorcycle without a helmet (sorry, Mom and Dad).

Riding the motorcycle through loud, dirty traffic was the most exhilarating thing I've done in a long time. it was less bumpy than I expected, and less dusty, perhaps because I learned how to tie my scarf around my head and face. I assume this will prove to be a useful skill at parties.

Varanasi is the noisiest city I've been in, and is most decidedly an Indian place. However, I am slowly finding the places with air conditioning and hopefully things will pick up when school starts and other interns get here.

Mom - I promise to get back into the swing of things.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

On the subway

I don't even know what to say.
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Tuesday, June 7, 2011

"I think the real point of a parasol is to look ridiculous."

Right, Kathryn. Not to shade you or anything.
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Loud and sonorous

The temple of heaven has a circular stone set of steps that puts you higher towards the heavens. If you stand at the exact center, it boosts your voice to make it particularly loud and sonorous. I need the help, so I tried it out.
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Temple of Heaven

K and I in front of the Temple of Heaven. We had to pay to get into a park, which I am morally opposed to doing, and then pay again to get into the temple, but it's gorgeous.
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Wine

Ancient Chinese wine glass. Not a joke. I don't even know how this is supposed to work.
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Monday, June 6, 2011

Lama Temple

The Lama Temple includes a sandalwood Buddha statue four stories high. It is enormous. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed. I tried to take one anyway, but it didn't come out. Take my word for it-it belongs in the book.
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Language

At the Lama Temple, the largest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside of Tibet, we saw signs in four different languages. From right to left, Mongolian, Chinese, Tibetan, and possibly Uighur (unclear on the far left.) Also, the people here speak a very different dialect, with a lot more Rs at the end of words. Even though I don't speak Chinese I can tell the difference and it sounds funny.
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Breakfast in Beijing

Beijing is famous for a special yogurt that comes in a porcelain jar, so after we got off the train we had some for breakfast. C and I really liked it.
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Saturday, June 4, 2011

Warrior

This is just an excuse for a close-up soldier photo. Seeing the warriors was my first encounter with large-scale Chinese tourism: a lot of people and a lot of tour groups. The census reports don't lie. There are a lot of people here. In the streets I don't really notice, but tourist attractions and buses are definitely more crowded than I'm used to, even in India. It seems especially weird because everything is nice here-the roads are paved, there are stoplights, the buses sometimes have air conditioning-but the masses shatter the idea of order I would expect.

In unrelated news, they checked our tickets three times in order to enter the space, and I had to pull out a fake student ID card at some of the checkpoints (I bought a student fee using K's legitimate student ID card). Chinese security also failed to confiscate C's pocket knife even though we had to put our bags through screener. I love beating the communists.
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The site

The terra cotta warriors are underground, but the government built buildings around the pits so tourists can come and look down on working archaeological sites, as well as see the soldiers where they were initially found, instead of in a museum. K and I had some interesting discussions on whether or not this creates ideal conditions for excavation, so I'll have to call Kelly to figure out the answer on that one. C commented on the difficulty of constructing a building without damaging the pottery in the ground below.
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Xi'an: terra cotta warriors

Kathryn and her friend Catherine (hereafter referred to as K and C) and I flew from Kunming to Xi'an last night. Xi'an isn't really near anything else, but has an underground terra cotta army that some farmers stumbled upon when digging a well. The soldiers are amazingly detailed and were once painted. They also held bronze weapons, directed chariots, and generally commanded troops.
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The biggest monastary in Southwest China

I went to visit this Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Shangri-La, which is called Gyalthan (I think) in Tibetan. It houses over 600 monks and was undergoing some construction while I was there. I also had to pay a lot of money (comparatively) to get access, which really differed from the donation based model I found in India.

The next day, back in Kunming, Kathryn and I went to the Western Hills with another friend, where we climbed hills (obviously) to get a great view of the city and the lake. The dragon gate was supposed to be the big attraction, but there was a stone forest that caught my eye. Supposedly the entire region was under water at some point, leaving these huge stone formations on top of the mountains.
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Thursday, June 2, 2011

Cutest announcers ever

Adorable. They spoke in Chinese, which I could infer because I picked out one of the three Mandarin words I know. Also, I saw their notes.

You will be treated to an insanely long blog post since the lights on the overnight bus don't work so I can't read my book, and it's officially too dark to look out the window meaningfully.

Almost no one could understand any of the Tibetan I tried to use, except one thanka painter from Lhasa who proposed to me. I feel like this is par for the course in any Tibetan area.

I also hiked to a temple with the name "1000 chicken temple." I saw decidedly less than 1000 chickens, but took some great photos of the town. From the top, you can see the two sides of Shangri-La. One side looks like a city-it's built up with restaurants and hotels and places to buy cell phones. The other side is still a village. It's mostly green with some houses and one road. They haven't finished the road over the hill connecting the two sides of town, but from the temple you can see the huge contrast in living conditions.

I also visited the largest monastery in the area, and I think in all of southwest China. It houses 600 monks and has a lot of temples. I scaled a wall to reach a far-off sputa, and a lovely old Tibetan lady had to help me down because I misjudged the height of the wall. Oops. Hopefully I'll have learned my lesson by the time I reach the great wall.

The square in old town hosts Tibetan dancing every night, so I watched that. During the day, people sell trinkets, and there are barbecues set up everywhere. I tried grilled yak and peppers, which comes served on a skewer with a spicy, tangy sauce. I would love to replicate the recipe for my family but I'm pretty sure it contains MSG and am not at all sure I could find yak meat anywhere in North America. How different are yaks from bison?

I met many, many travelers and expats. Apparently there are 12 expats in the whole city, which I thought was a lot because it's a pretty small place. I also met a woman from New Jersey! She lives off exit 135. Yes, she asked me what exit I lived off of, even in China.
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Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Wednesday

I have no idea what's happening, except a large number of schoolchildren and their families have gathered in the square to sing and dance. They're all wearing Tibetan clothes and have been out since at least nine in the morning. The temple and enormous golden prayer wheel loom on the hill above.
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