First Impressions: Melbourne

Before I left, a lovely Canadian told me "Sydney is like LA, and Melbourne is the San Francisco of Australia." So far this description, or at least the latter half, has proven accurate.

The approach over Melbourne is pretty fantastic - not as breathtaking as the descent over Sydney, but also not directly comparable since this was as night. The cab ride to the city started the art show - the bridges have a uniquely artistic quality to them, and everything seemed to be lit up like an exhibit. The highway also had a huge tunnel-like structure that reminded me of the Bird's Nest stadium from the Beijing Olympics. I couldn't figure out the purpose, so chalked it up, again, to art.

It's got a bunch of buildings with funky architecture, like this.

I stayed in a hostel just south of the Central Business District (CBD). Because I am an unabashed homer, I picked one called the "Claremont Hostel," which turned out to be an old mansion. After checking in, I went out to a few bars, and saw a live DJ-guitar-bongo drums combo which was one of the best live music events I've seen in a while. Then I moved to a different bar and rocked out to a sweet cover band and watched a bit of the footy season opener - Australian Rules Football, for the uninitiated. At this second bar (an Irish pub), a guy who was clearly foreign asked to put his jacket behind the bar counter. The bartender told him he couldn't, but directed him towards the cloakroom. He proceeded to question her about what a "cokeroom" was and seemed completely unfamiliar with the concept of paying to hang up one's jacket. Only in Australia? 

This morning I caught a train to the CBD. I already love the public transit in Melbourne, and it does remind me of San Francisco - there are trams that run on the surface in a similar fashion both places. The number one thing in every guidebook and blog post is the Queen Victoria market, which opens at 6 am on Saturdays. I was most decidedly not awake at 6 am, but headed there first anyway.

I've been to a good number of markets, so I wasn't expecting anything too special, which of course set me up to be particularly enthralled. I walked inside and was bombarded with an array of meats, cheeses, spreads, and the occasional wine sample inside a huge building. I wandered for a bit, then headed to the outdoor market for the fruits and veggies.

Look at this stuff in the middle of winter! 

There were some huge outdoor stalls and strawberries were $1.50 a pint (in the winter!) so of course I bought some.

The "American doughnut truck." Adorable.

 I expected that to be the end of the market, but I walked across the parking lot to find another covered outdoor market selling everything from luggage to t-shirts to outback hats and belts. There were also the infamous Australia sweaters.

For the record, I haven't seen a single Australian actually wearing one of these things, and it's winter, which I assume is the season in which they would be worn.

I also happened upon a stall with a man selling flavored wines and ports. I tried chocolate port and chili wine (which was delicious, with a little burn at the end) way too early in the morning. In between all the stalls and fruit stands, there were cute outdoor cafes with seating and some buskers playing music.

The market also wins for the best bathrooms I've seen in Australia so far. Check out these sinks:

Knee operated? Genius.

The Queen Victoria market was a little bit like every other market I'd ever seen had a huge, orderly baby. Perhaps this was because there were fewer people there due to the election.

I wandered over to the Victoria State Library, and then attempted to go on an art walk. 

Found in the library.

Melbourne is known as the arts capital of Australia and in the 70s and 80s the street art culture exploded. I started at Melbourne Artists Supplies, the most-well known shop in the area. 

 The guy working the counter shared some of his favorite spots, but also told me that the city has implemented a $500 fine for each can of spray paint you take on public transit, which has decidedly put the damper on some of the street art culture. However, there's been an uptick in commissioned works, so the vibe is kind of different, but still interesting. Banksy and Keith Haring also have works in Melbourne, which I attempted to find, but ended up meandering around.

I did find this, which I like quite a bit.

 Eventually it started to rain, so I headed back to the hostel. It was lovely to ride the tram and see the a few other parts of the city, including the Melbourne Cricket Grounds. Then I had just a bit of time to wait for my cowoker to come pick me up in our rental car so we could start our trip down the Great Ocean Road!